Condition guide

How clean is it, really?

Almost everyone says the same thing when they ask for a quote: it's pretty clean, it's not too bad. It is meant honestly and it is almost never how the house reads on the day, which is how a job that should take five hours turns into eight and somebody ends up out of pocket.

So instead of asking you for an adjective, we ask you to pick a level. Four levels across thenine things that actually drive how long a clean takes. Tick one per section as you go and we will put the answer together at the bottom for you to copy into your reply. It takes a couple of minutes and it is the difference between an estimate you can rely on and a number we both guessed at.

Nobody is being marked. This describes the job in front of us, not how you keep your house. A heavy kitchen after a rental handover, a renovation, a new baby or a long illness is the most ordinary thing in the world, and it is exactly the job we are here for.

Kitchen surfaces
Oven
Rangehood
Bathrooms and wet areas
Floors, hard (timber, tile, vinyl, laminate)
Floors, carpet and rugs
Windows and tracks
General clutter and surfaces
Walls, skirtings and fittings

Grade this one on how clean the walls are, not on marks. Scuffs and small marks are fair wear and tear under the Consumer Affairs Victoria guidelines, and holes left by hooks or shelves are damage, so neither is a cleaning job and neither should end up in your price. What counts here is dust, cobwebs, grease, soot and handprints. Two things we would rather say now than on the day: smoke or soot staining that will not wash out needs a repaint, and a dead globe is a globe. Both are a part, not a clean. Cobwebs around window frames are counted under Windows and tracks, so you are never charged for the same thing twice.

The written description is what your estimate is based on. The photo is an example only, and it will not match your place exactly.

Your answer

Pick a level in each of the nine sections above. If the summary box does not appear, just write the nine levels into your message: kitchen, oven, rangehood, bathrooms, hard floors, carpet, windows, clutter, walls and skirtings.

How to pick

  1. One level per section, and a mix is completely normal. A light bathroom and a heavy kitchen is a very common house. Nobody has the same answer all the way down.
  2. If you are between two, pick the higher one. It costs you nothing: you pay for the hours actually worked, not for the estimate. An estimate pitched a bit high is money back in your pocket on the day. An estimate pitched too low is the awkward conversation on your doorstep, and that is the one worth avoiding.
  3. Not applicable is a fine answer, with a line saying why. "No carpet anywhere" or "the oven was replaced last month" makes the estimate sharper, not weaker.
  4. Send a few photos with it. The kitchen, inside the oven, each bathroom, the main living floor. Four or five on your phone, and no need to tidy first. Without photos or a look at the place in person we will not put a fixed number on it, because a number we guessed at helps neither of us. You would get an hourly rate and a minimum instead, which is a fair offer but a vaguer one.

These written descriptions are what your estimate is based on. Any photographs or illustrations alongside them are there to help you picture a level, and are not part of what is agreed.

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